The Pantheon in Rome at night

Wondering at this masterpiece built under the emperor Hadrian

I was in Rome this April (2024) and drawn, as ever, to the Pantheon. This incredible survivor from the Roman Empire. Built originally under Marcus Agrippa then renovated by Domitian and the building you see today, constructed by Hadrian - an emperor who presided over a vast number of architectural projects.

Since my last visit, the Pantheon has begun charging to view and - ironically - the queues have been longer than ever. In fact, it’s miserable trying to get in. If you want to see Italian chaos at its worst, go down to the Pantheon. Maddening!

Still, how this temple endured when most of ancient Rome was plundered over the centuries for ‘spoila’ is nothing short of a miracle. It was turned into a church when the empire became Christian but that didn’t stop one pope stripping the bronze off the roof and entrance. At one point, it also had church bell towers constructed on top that were later removed.

The doors of the Pantheon are a source of debate. Are they genuinely Roman or later - medieval or 17th century - additions? Here I am in front of them…